Frequently Asked Questions

1)      What type/size pumps do you use?

a.        We use Zoeller 1/3 hp cast iron sump pumps.  At an 8’ dynamic head, these pumps can push out over 2000 gallons per hour.

2)      How long is the discharge pipe?

a.        We intentionally keep the discharge pipe short to prevent clogging.  If the discharge pipe gets clogged, then the pump will burn out, and your system will be useless until it is replaced.  Depending on your property, sometimes adding an extended, buried discharge may be possible, at additional cost.

3)      How deep and wide is the trench for a French Drain?

a.        The trench is typically 12-15” deep and 12-15” wide.  The width will vary depending on a number of factors, including the foundation type, the width of the footer, and the amount of water getting in.

4)      What are weepholes?

a.        weepholes are small holes drilled in the interior layer of the bottom cinderblock to allow any water trapped inside the block to empty out into the French drain.  We drill 3/8” holes into every chamber along the bottom course of blocks.  This includes the chamber formed where 2 blocks meet.

5)      How much dust will there be?

a.        At the end of the day, this is a construction project.  We are breaking up cement, digging dirt, hauling debris out, and bringing in crushed stone and new cement.  So yes, there is going to be some dust, but surpisingly, not as much as you might think.  We use electric jackhammers, as opposed to concrete saws or air hammers, which greatly reduces the amount of dust created.  We also attach a vacuum to the hammer to catch a large percentage of the dust before it can escape into the air.  The remainder of the dust typically does a pretty good job of staying in the basement.  Usually, a once over dusting a few days after the work is finished will be enough to get you back to normal.  (note: the dusting is your responsibility.)

6)      What is a monopour?  How do I know if I have one?

a.        Click here to see picture illustrating the difference between a monopour foundation, and a traditional cinderblock foundation.  Monopours are ONLY possible with cinderblock foundations.  If you have a stone or poured concrete foundation, then you DO NOT have a monopour.

b.       If you can see the ENTIRE bottom block, then you most likely have a monopour.  (it is possible that you just have a thick floor with a thick bed of stone underneath that covers the entire bottom block, but that is a rare occurrence.)

7)      What difference does a monopour make to the installation of my French drain?

a.        Click here to see a diagram illustrating the differences in a French Drain installed in a monopour foundation vs a traditional block foundation.  The bottom line is that installing a French drain in a monopour takes more materials, and more time, and will leave you with a ‘ledge’ or ‘step’ approximately 3” high and 8-10” wide.  You will have to accommodate for this if you have a finished basement.  The extra cost for us to install a system in a monopour foundation runs anywhere from $500-1500, depending on the size of the basement.

8)      How long does a battery backup last?

a.        When the battery is new and fully charged, they are rated for 7-8 hours of ‘continuous operation’.  However, with a sump pump, rarely is the battery engaged in ‘continuous operation’.  The true lifespan of the battery depends entirely on how often the pump is being triggered.  If the pump is only going of once an hour, it might last for several days.  If the pump is going off every minute, then you are going to get far less time out of it.

9)      Is any maintenance required for the battery backup?

a.        Yes.  The actual battery itself must be replaced every 2-3 years per the manufacturer’s recommendations.  We use Heavy Duty, Deep Cycle, Marine Batteries.  Depending on the size and brand you get, they can run anywhere from $100-250.  Replacing the battery is fairly easy.  You just disconnect the ‘+’ and ‘-‘ connectors, pull the old battery out, put the new one in, and reconnect the connectors.  If you would like us to replace the battery for you, we will be happy to do that for $500.

10)   Is there any maintenance required for the French drain system?

a.        There aren’t too many things to worry about with a French drain, but there are a few.

                                                               i.      Make sure the top of the mira-drain and/or the safety slot stays clear.  Keep furniture, flooring and any debris from covering it up.  If it gets covered or clogged, then water can’t get into the drain if it is coming down the wall from above.

                                                              ii.      Make sure the sump pump discharge is clear.  Keep leaves, mulch, dirt and snow cleared away from the end of the discharge pipe.  Also be careful around it when landscaping.

                                                            iii.      The sump pump is mechanical and WILL fail eventually.  The lifespan of the pump typically depends on how often it is being used.  If your pump goes off 2 or 3 times EVERY DAY, then plan to replace the pump every few years.  If it only goes off 2 or 3 times per year, then it very well may last 20 years or more.

11)  How long will the work take?

a.        It certainly depends on the size of the job, but on average most jobs take 2-3 days to complete.  We do NOT start one job, then go off to start another job, and then return a week later to continue the first job.  Once we start a job, we stay there until we are done.

12)   What ‘extra’ expenses should I expect?  What is NOT included in the estimate?

a.        electrical work.  If there is not already an outlet in the vicinity of the sump pump, you will need to have one installed by a qualified, licensed electrician to make sure the work is up to code and safe.

b.       decorative flooring.  If we have to cut through tile, hardwood, carpet or raised flooring, then you will have to hire a flooring specialist to replace the flooring after we are finished.  Usually the carpet doesn’t need to be replaced, just put back down.  Depending on the type of carpet, this can be a do it yourself project.  We do not put the carpet back down for you.  That is your responsibility.

c.        Drywall/framing/painting.  If we have to cut any finished walls (studs & drywall), then you will have to hire a contractor to replace whatever materials we have removed.  This doesn’t happen often since we can usually tunnel underneath finished walls.

d.       Fuel Lines.  Replacement of old fuel lines is NOT included.  Quite often, the fuel line leading from your oil tank to the furnace is old, corroded, and sometimes even buried under cement.  Sometimes these lines cannot handle the stress of the work going on around them.   If the oil line springs a leak, the replacement of that line is NOT included.  Sometimes we can replace the line for you, but sometimes you will need your oil company to come out and do it.  If we replace the line, there will be a separate charge for that.  Depending on the length and difficulty, it will be anywhere from $500-1500.

e.       Landscaping replacement.  If we have to remove any trees, shrubs, bushes, or plants in order to do our work, we will be as gentle as possible, but we cannot guarantee the survival or re-usability of any landscaping.  You may need to hire a landscaper after we are finished to restore the area to the aesthetic standards you desire.

f.         Deck/Patio replacement.  Occasionally we have to take up some amount of deck or patio in order to complete our work.  Whether cement, slate, or pavers, you will have to have a deck or patio specialist come afterwards to replace any materials we had to take up.  In the case of patios, we recommend waiting a few weeks before doing that to allow the dirt a chance to re-compact.

g.        Air Conditioning.  Sometimes when we do exterior work, the A/C compressor is in the way and needs to be moved for us to complete the work.  When this is the case, you have to have a licensed HVAC specialist move the unit prior to our arrival.

13)  What happens if I still get water after you do the work?

a.        step one is to come out and figure out where the water is coming from.   Sometimes you can have more than one problem.  If you have 2 or 3 different problems, but only 1 was fixed, then the additional problems will require additional work at additional cost.  Sometimes the additional problems are difficult to identify until after you fix the first problem.   However, if there is only one problem, and we applied the correct fix, but it isn’t working properly, then we will come back out and fix it until it works properly at no charge. 

14)  What are some of the most common ‘unexpected’ issues that you encounter?

a.        Wide footer

                                                               i.      The inside lip of most footers are typically 6-8” wide.  When this is the case, we can proceed as normal.  Occasionally, however, we encounter footers that are 12”, 18”, or even 24” wide.  When this happens, we have to make the trench significantly wider, which increases the time, materials, and expense of the job.  Sometimes a wide footer will also prevent us from tunneling underneath finished basement walls, and will force us to cut the studs and drywall, which will add to your overall job cost.

b.       Extra thick/hard cement

                                                               i.      most cement floors are poured with ‘regular’ cement and are usually 3-4” thick.  Occasionally we encounter floors that are 6”, 8”, or once we even encountered an 18” thick floor.  Sometimes the floor may not be exceptionally thick, but might be a high PSI concrete.  In either case, whether extra thick, or high PSI, the job is going to take longer, be more expensive, and create more dust.

c.        Double floors

                                                               i.      believe it or not, on more than one occasion we have encountered a second cement floor underneath the first cement floor.  Obviously this is going to increase the time and expense of the job.

d.       Faux walls

                                                               i.      sometimes there will be faux walls built in front of old stone walls to provide a more uniform look.  These walls are normally not structural or load bearing.  They do, however, make it more difficult to install a French drain.

e.       Cement filled blocks

                                                               i.      in an effort to increase the stability of the foundation, sometimes builders will fill the bottom few courses of block with cement.  This may increase the strength of the walls, but is also makes it more difficult, and possibly more expensive to waterproof the basement.  When the blocks are filled with cement, we cannot drill weepholes into the block.  We typically have to work our way up the wall until we get above the level of the cement, and then drill the weepholes.  This requires demolition of finished walls, and requires the installation of a water diverter to direct the water from the weepholes into the French drain.  This will add extra time, materials, and expense to your project.